Phnom Penh anticipates 3 million to celebrate tradition with boat races, colourful floats and fireworks beside the Tonle Sap River
To understand the importance of Bon Om Touk to the Cambodian people, you have to go back to the time of King Jayavarman VII.
As a 12th-century Khmer prince vying for control of the fractured Angkor empire, he repelled the invading forces of the Champa kingdom in battles on land and water. The climactic victory by the Khmer navy took place on the vast Tonle Sap lake, and that liberation has been commemorated ever since.
Four years have passed since it was last celebrated. Now Bon Om Touk – the Boat Racing Festival, also known as the Royal Water Festival – will return to the banks of the Tonle Sap River this weekend for three festive days.
The event marks the river’s semiannual change in flow and the end of the rainy season. Beginning Sunday, decorated lanterns and colourful fireworks will soar above floats representing every department and agency of the government – and, especially, the 338 boats competing in the traditional race known as “Sampeah Preah Khae”.
Some 3 million festival-goers are expected to converge on Phnom Penh while concurrent festivities will take place throughout the country.
This year’s festival rebirth brings new additions, including an exclusive viewing pavilion for international tourists and increased security to ensure safety and order.
Prime Minister Hun Manet and his father, former PM Hun Sen, announced their sponsorship of 40 race boats in this year’s festival. Sen had previously advocated for a monumental festival in pendulum to the 70th anniversary of Cambodia’s independence.
King Norodom Sihamoni will preside over the opening ceremony of the boat races and the grand championship on Tuesday afternoon. The winners of the 2019 race (the most recent) were the 77 “Saray Decho Sen Chey” paddlers from Kandal Province.
In the recent past, the water festival was beset by a series of unfortunate disasters. Consecutive cancellations from 2011 to 2013 followed a tragic stampede on Koh Pich bridge during the 2010 festival, claiming 300 lives. After resuming in 2014, it was again interrupted in 2015 due to high water levels. COVID-19 forced cancellations in 2020 and 2021. Despite rumours of financial restraints, refuted by former PM Sen, last year’s cancellation was attributed to the hosting of the 41st ASEAN Summit in Phnom Penh.
The Phnom Penh Police Commissioner has announced the deployment of around 5,000 troops at this year’s festival to guarantee safety and order and to limit traffic congestion, an imminent concern ever since the 2010 stampede.
As well, the Ministry of Tourism will host a special pavilion north of the Royal Palace for international visitors on tour packages. The pavilion will offer amenities such as free drinks, multilingual headsets and live broadcasts from National Television of Cambodia.
“This national festival is a good opportunity for international tourists to learn more about the traditional culture of Cambodia,” said the Ministry in an announcement earlier this month.
Even yet, one area of concern may be in the event’s aftermath, where waste management has often not been prioritised.
After the 2016 festival, a video emerged showing city cleaners sweeping plastic bags, food containers and other waste from the river’s edge directly into the Tonle Sap river. According to a consultancy agency, over 60,000 square metres of rubbish were swept into the river for three consecutive nights during the 2016 water festival.
Phnom Penh Governor Khuong Sreng told local media that more than 300 workers have been assigned by the local government to clear up rubbish both during and after this year’s festival.