More than 60 islands adorn the Cambodian coast. Our selection of some of the kingdom's most memorable retreats makes the choice easy
Cambodia’s islands shine like gemstones in a cerulean sea. For travellers seeking blue skies, gentle waves, and the warm hospitality of the Khmer people, the string of isles west and south of Sihanoukville have as many treasures as a chest buried in the sand. Koh Rong, the largest in this chain, is a longtime favourite of Southeast Asia backpackers. But as it welcomes more mid-priced lodgings, some budget-conscious travellers have cast their collective eyes south toward smaller Koh Rong Sanloem. The islands have kept their charm and authenticity along with their popularity. Here, you’ll find coral reefs and clear shoals, quiet beaches just around the bend from even the most hopping party hostels.
Following are some of our favourite resorts on the islands. Each is easily accessed by speedboat or ferry from the tourist pier of Sihanoukville, just a short taxi or tuk tuk ride from the city’s airport and bus depots. Pack your swimsuit and plenty of sunscreen: We’re going island hopping.
ROYAL SANDS
KOH RONG
True to the name, you’ll feel like royalty as you settle into this island villa experience. The largest of Cambodia’s islands accessed from Sihanoukville, Koh Rong isn’t a private island like some others on this list. That said, much of Koh Rong is minimally developed, home only to rustic fishing villages and coconut palms − so this resort provides an experience as private as they come. Spacious rooms and clean, sweeping beaches create a getaway for relaxing in style. And if the turquoise sea isn’t to your liking, you can unwind in the resort’s grand pool. Some of the 67 luxurious villas have private pools for secluded dips. Indoor-outdoor rain showers, open-air lounge areas and tropical décor enhance the exquisite living experience.
A daily itinerary can be as active or as sedentary as one chooses. Guests can snorkel, SCUBA dive, paddle board, mountain bike, trek, even kayak through a mangrove forest. At night, swim among bioluminescent plankton to view an extraordinary marvel of nature. An outdoor yoga space offers views of Koh Rong’s central hills. The Senses Spa offers private and outdoor facilities for a range of therapies.
Elaborate breakfasts and Mediterranean dinners are served at the upscale Ocean Restaurant, Asian dishes at the Chill Beach Bar. For those who can’t wait another minute, a private helipad enables guests to fly directly to the resort from Phnom Penh.
Song Saa Private Island
Koh bong and Koh ouen
The twin islands forming Song Saa (“sweetheart”) are renowned in luxury island living. Koh Bong’s 27 villas, many of them built over water and each with a private infinity pool, highlight an intimate paradise of white sands and green foliage. A carefully preserved coral reef invites snorkellers and scuba divers, while kayakers enjoy paddling over these remote sanctuaries. Winding boardwalks show off glorious marine vistas and lead to its adjacent jungle twin isle, Koh Ouen. Vista Bar and Restaurant serves organic Khmer cuisine based on locally sourced ingredients alongside gourmet Western creations, and there’s also a wellness spa.
Rory and Melita Hunter bought these idyllic but neglected isles in 2006 and spent six years rehabilitating them before opening in 2012 as a five-star retreat.
Each element of the eco-friendly resort was built in careful balance with the island environment, and the resort’s design and architecture underscore the Hunters’ all-immersive commitment to sustainability. Reclaimed timber, thatched roofs, driftwood tables, decks and floors of wood salvaged from derelict fishing boats – all infused with works of Khmer art – speak to a deep affection for the marine environment and for the culture of the Cambodian people who live here.
LA PASSION BY ACHARIYAK
KOH RONG SANLOEM
The Achariyak Hospitality group has taken its first step into the Cambodian hotel business with this sustainability-driven resort at Saracen Bay, on the east-facing shore of Koh Rong’s companion island. Extending up the slope of an expansive nature preserve on Koh Rong Sanloem, La Passion was inspired by the parent company’s ambition for sharing Khmer culture, hospitality and service.
Fifty-eight deluxe rooms and suites, surrounded by a lush rainforest garden, blend elegance with a homey ambience. The Fishermen Restaurant sources directly from local anglers, while the Jongkran restaurant focuses on gourmet Khmer fare prepared and served in French style. The seaside infinity pool doubles as a classroom for aspiring SCUBA divers to get certified. They then apply their knowledge in the adjacent underwater world.
Solar power, an organic farm , sustainable laundry and sewerage, the replanting of trees that had to be removed and a wide range of energy-efficiency measures have been implemented in every stage of La Passion’s development and operation.
SIX SENSES
KOH KRABEY
The perfect place to feast your senses on the richness of island life, this private oasis takes only 15 minutes to reach by speedboat from Ream. Its undisputed highlight is the acclaimed Six Senses spa and wellness retreat (see page 138), which attends to any and all holistic bodily needs. But there are many more reasons why you may choose to stay longer than planned. You’ll find all the amenities of luxury here, from a sky observatory for nighttime gazing to an outdoor cinema. Six Senses is an international brand set apart by its attention to detail along the lines of – you guessed it – the six senses.
The sprawling 40-villa resort is pleasantly shaded under a jungle canopy. Each villa has a private infinity pool, an indoor soaking tub, a lush master bedroom and an outdoor socialising area with a fire pit. The natural environs soothe your senses, with only the occasional golf cart or friendly staff to disturb the idyll.
The property has an impressive roster of ways to relax, exercise and fuel up – such as the intimate Tree restaurant, nestled into the greenery, and the all-day Aha restaurant. Other highlights include a cool sunset bar, a beautiful oceanfront boardwalk, a lap pool, an outdoor fitness circuit and even an ice-cream parlour.